Afghanistan's
rugged terrain and seasonally harsh climate
have not deterred foreign invaders who coveted
this land or sought to cross it on the road
to further conquests. The history of Afghanistan
is replete with tales of invasion. Yet the
rugged landscape combined with the fiercely
independent spirit of the Afghan people have
seriously impeded and often repulsed would-be
conquerors.
Afghanistan
resembles an irregularly shaped hanging leaf
with the Wakhan Corridor and the Pamir Knot
as its stem in the northeast. Situated between
29 35' and 38 40' north latitude and 60 31'
and 75 00' east latitude, it encompasses approximately
652,290 square kilometers, roughly the size
of Texas, stretching 1,240 kilometers from
east to west and 565 kilometers from north
to south. Afghanistan is completely landlocked,
bordered by Iran to the west (925 kilometers),
by the Central Asian States of Turkmenistan,
Uzbekistan, and Tajikistan to the north and
northeast (2,380 kilometers), by China at
the easternmost top of the Wakhan Corridor
(96 kilometers), and by Pakistan to the east
and south (2,432 kilometers).
Mountain
Systems
The dominant mountain system of Afghanistan
is the Hindu Kush, and that extension westwards
of its water-divide which reindicated by the
Koh-i-Baba to the north-west of Kabul, and
by the Firozkhoi plateau (Karjistan), which
merges still farther to the west by gentle
gradients into the Paropamisus, and which
may be traced across the Hari Rud to Mashad.
The
culminating peaks of the Koh-i-Baba overlooking
the sources of the Hari Rud, the Helmund, the
Kunduz and the Kabul very nearly reach 17,000
ft. in height (Shah Fuladi, the highest, is
16,870), and from them to the south-west long
spurs divide the upper tributaries of the Helmund,
and separate its basin from that of the Farah
Rud. These spurs retain a considerable altitude,
for they are marked by peaks exceeding 11,000
ft. They sweep in a broad band of roughly parallel
ranges to the south-west, preserving their general
direction till they abut on the Great Registan
desert to the west of Kandahar, where they terminate
in a series of detached and broken anticlinals
whose sides are swept by a sea of encroaching
sand. The long, straight, level-backed ridges
which divide the Argandab, the Tarnak and Arghastan
valleys, and flank the route from Kandaharto
Ghazni. determining the direction of that route,
are outliers of this system, which geographically
includes the Khojak, or Kwaja Amran, range in
Baluchistan.
North
of the main water-parting of Afghanistan the
broad synclinal plateau into which the Hindu
Kush is merged is traversed by the gorges of
the Saighan, Bamian and Kamard tributaries of
the Kunduz, and farther to the west by the Band-i-Amir
or Balkh river. Between the debouchment of the
Upper Murghab from the Firozkhoi uplands into
the comparatively low level of the valley above
Bala Murghab, extending eastwards in a nearly
straight line to the upper sources of the Shibarghan
stream, the Band-i-Turkestan range forms the
northern ridge between the plateau and the sand
formations of the Chul. lt is a level, straight-backed
line of sombre mountain ridge, from the crest
of which, as from a wall, the extraordinary
configuration of that immense loess deposit
called the Chul can be seen stretching away
northwards to the Oxus--ridge upon ridge, wave
upon wave, like a vast yellow-grey sea of storm-twisted
billows. The Band-i-Turkestan anticlinal may
be traced eastwards of the Balkh-ab (the Band-i-Amir)
within the folds of the Kara Koh to the Kunduz,
and beyond; but the Kara Koh does not mark the
northern wall of the great plateau nor overlook
the sands of the Oxus plain, as does the Band-i-Turkestan.
Here
there intervenes a second wide synclinal plateau,
of which the northern edge is defined by the
flat outlines of the Elburz to the south of
Mazar-itsharif, and immediately at the foot
of this range lie the alluvial plains of Mazar
and Tashkurghan. Opposite Tashkurghan the Oxus
plain narrows to a short 25 m. On the south
this great band of roughly undulatine central
plateau is bounded by the Koh-i-Baba, to the
west of Kabul, and by the Hindu Kush to the
north and north-east of that city. Thus the
main routes from Kabul to Afghan Turkestan must
cross either one or other of these ranges, and
must traverse one or other of the terrific defiles
which have been carved out of them by the upoer
tributaries of the rivers running northwards
towards the Oxus. Probably in no country in
the world are there gathered together within
comparatively narrow limits so many clean-cut
waterways, measuring thousands of feet in depth,
affording such a stupendous system of narrow
roadways through the hills.
After
the Hindu Kush and the Turkestan mountains,
that range which divides Ningrahar (or the valley
of ialalabad) from Kurram and the Afridi Tirah,
and is called Safed Koh (also the name of the
range south of the Hari Rud), is the most important,
as it is the most impressive, in Afghanistan.
The
highest peak of the Safed Koh, Sikaram, is 15,600
ft. above sea-level. From this central dominating
peak it falls gently towards the west, and gradually
subsides in long spurs, reaching to within a
few miles of Kabul and barring the road from
Kabul to Ghazni. At a point which is not far
east of the Kabul meridian an offshoot is directed
southwards, which becomes the water-parting
between the Kurram and the Logar at Shutargardan,
and can be traced to a connexion with the great
watershed of the frontier dividing the Indus
basin from that of the Helmund. This main watershed
retains its high altitude far to the south.
There are peaks measuring over 12,000 ft. on
the divide between the Tochi and the Ghazni
plains.
There
are no glaciers now to be found in Afghan Turkestan;
but evidences of their recent existence are
abundant. The great boulder bed terraces in
some of the valleys of the northern slopes of
the Ferozkhoi plateau are probably of glacial
origin. In the mountains west of Kabul glaciers
have retired, leaving the moraines perfectly
undisturbed. They are probably contemporary
with the older alluvia.
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